JAC//STYLE

CTR AW10: Armani Privé

Last season, Giorgio Armani explored the solar system in a Privé collection that was heavily influenced by the solar world, saying that it was “all about the moon”. This time around, there was no overwhelming theme or a base inspiration; it was about the classics. The collection revisited what Armani does best- the enduring staples of camel coats, glamorous evening dresses and feminine suits, all of which have earned Armani his iconic reputation.

Fitted jackets with boarded frill collars were paired with smart matching trousers, whilst slightly cropped jackets sat atop longer, low- and mid-hem skirts. Oversized wooden buttons were a tribal influence that brought some of the tailoring to life, just as buckled bags and cropped leather gloves created a safari feeling, effectively mirrored by a sophisticated current of muted tan and brown tones throughout the collection.

A number of different fabrics were used, most notably silks, tweeds, snakeskin and sequins. Altogether, this diversity allowed for a relatively deep exploration of cut and form, whilst still allowing Armani to harness creativity in a somewhat withholding manner. However, this approached worked wonders- the clothes were, for the most part, wearable, practical and stylish enough to be worn by couture-clad women who led demanding, hectic lives.

Draping was to be witnessed in many of the designs, but, thankfully, not to a billowing, Roman excess. A soft, two-toned dress and an ivory overcoat were among my highlights of the works, but the truly brilliant ball gowns were the apple of the audience’s eye: a sequence of embellished, bright, full-length dresses finished off the show in an enchanting, elegant and typically Italian way.

Overall, this collection was pivotal for both Armani and his clients- it was a far more reserved and controlled affair than the lunar experiment of last season, but still comprehensive and detailed enough to attract a myriad of eager patrons. Alas, this was one of the strongest couture shows, demonstrating simplicity and sumptuousness, as well as everything in between.

Who Was Where?

First off, I’m sorry that I’ve been so awful at posting updates. Rest assured, the things I have been doing are very much in relation to my future and my writing. Anyway, let’s get started! Although the couture shows were, in this day and age, a million lightyears ago, I’ve not been able to properly look through them or ponder on individual pieces. The past few weeks has been a blur of work experience and sunshine, so what better way to reintroduce myself to blogging than a nice, light look at the front row? Who has been where, need you ask?

The Hon. Daphne Guinness at Chanel

Carine Roitfeld with Patrick Demarchelier at Christian Dior

Grace Coddington with Anna Wintour at Armani Privé

Suzy Menkes with Stefano Tonchi at Armani Privé

Mario Testino at Jean Paul Gaultier 

All in all, the usual- but that’s what we all love. I’ll be in Paris this September, so it’ll be interesting to see these people in their natural habitat, as it were, but it would be even more interesting to actually slip into a show. Mmmm… “I’m a make-up artist, honestly!”

CTR AW10: Jean Paul Gaultier

It was with his usual, playful vigour that Jean Paul Gaultier presented his Fall 2010 Couture show in Paris’ third arrondissement. Models, including Dita von Teese, paraded down the runway in the customary Gaultier swagger, swishing glamorous coats and teetering around with Hepburn-esque cigarette holders. This show continued from this year’s Spring line in the sense that the clothes were dynamic, indulgent and extraordinarily well crafted.

Turban-clad models stormed onto the runway, sporting a pageant of craftsmanship and clear, well-executed design. A vampish gabardine trench, worn by Karlie Kloss, was the first in a succession of cleverly cut garments, all of which demonstrated Gaultier’s love of the old and lust for the new. Gaultier’s inimitable handiwork shone unmistakeably through the use of fur and leather, with Gaultier using the fabrics in interesting ways.

Fur and feathers paired with sheer silk to suggest extravagance and decadence, whilst leather and polyutherane melding the classic with the futuristic. A silver fox wrap and red fox fur trimmings, alongside layered, dripping feathers created a debauched, indulgent mood whilst panelled leather and shimmering, aquatic PU skirts fused to give the collection its ultramodern je ne sais quoi.

A slight tribal feeling mirrored the progression from Spring to Fall. Amongst the highlights of the collection was an embellished, batwing playsuit, which reminded me of the backdrop of Sex and the City 2. There was daywear, there was nightwear. Black and white, and the most striking of colours along the way, was used to create a timeless but open-minded expression of dress.

Altogether, this take worked well to create a collection that was balanced and demonstrative, showing that Gaultier can please a number of different women, which, after all, is what the industry is all about. 

Thank You!

I’ve recieved so many new followers, so thank you so, so much! I really appreciate it and hope you enjoy my blog. I’m off on holiday- ‘vacation’- in about twenty minutes, and I’ve been a terribly lazy fuck and not queued any posts. I’m really sorry! I’m only away for six days, though, and I’ll be back and launch straight in to a round-up of Fall ‘10 Couture and Spring ‘11 Menswear. Sorry, but thank you so much again!

Hope you all have a great week and I’ll be back soon!

CTR AW10: Chanel

One of the things I look forward to every single fashion week in Paris is the Chanel show, but Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear was a huge disappointment for me. The show was, in my opinion, horrible and the designs were nigh-on tacky. Now comes retribution, in the form of Fall 2010 Couture. The first time I glanced at the collection I was disenchanted, but, on second look, there are some exceptional pieces and Karl Lagerfeld has continued to exhibit his extraordinary talent.

Ever the showman, Lagerfeld presented the collection under a gargantuan gold lion, in allusion to Coco Chanel’s zodiac sign, Leo. Outsized overcoats, in cavernous shades of brown, red and blue- the blue being lined in dark-red fur- were the first stand-out items, the second of which was the almost deconstructive take on the Chanel suit. At first look, it appeared that the characteristic suit had been manipulated by Lagerfeld to generate an almost Kawakubo-esque result, but in reality, all that had happened was that the jackets were cropped to just below the bust and the hemlines dropped several feet to mid-calf. Simple, but clever.

Next came jackets that fell to just above the knee, with half-length, slightly puffed sleeves. They were elegant and the tweeds and trimming were synonymous with the Chanel label. Two-piece suits- dresses with matching cropped jackets- followed, and were amongst the strongest of the looks. A jaunt to North Africa pursued, with shimmering beaded embellishments piping tight dresses, which gave them an extravagant, luxurious look.

Although the rest of the collection was largely unexciting, passing in a whirlwind of floral print, Athenian draping and rich silks, it came alive once again when lace was thrown into the mix. The delicate fabric was, as with many of the Fall Ready-to-Wear collections, given a grungier, more indolent aesthetic, painting a more rock-‘n’-roll picture than seasons past. Towards the end of the collection, the dresses became dreamier and more romantic, with pale, floaty sheer and flower detailing, whilst metallic threads gave some of the dresses a retro feel.

As with every Chanel collection, there were hits and there were misses. However, after the let-down of Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear, this more than makes up for it and I, for one, have had my faith restored in both Lagerfeld and the Chanel brand. My breath is baited for October and Spring 2011, so we can only wait and see!

CTR AW10: Givenchy

Last season, Ricardo Tisci fed the hype surrounding Givenchy by creating the label’s best haute couture collection in seasons. The prints of his Spring Ready-to-Wear collection have become instantly recognisable, as has his impeccable talent at crafting some of fashion’s best garments in recent years. His residence at Givenchy has been cemented by this faultless couture collection, featuring conscientious embroidery, glittering embellishments and a satisfyingly creative use of texture.

The collection was formed entirely of gowns, inspired by life, death and the human body. The optimism of Tisci’s structures was such that the dusty dresses were haunting, evocative and clinging in both their proportions and styles. This poignant nature carried through the collection, with a circumspective palette of white, black and gold showing Givenchy’s continual restraint, but with a clear, tender reminder of the lavishness of couture. The gowns were beaded with jewels, with one gown reportedly taking over 1,600 hours to hand-embellish in the Givenchy atelier, whilst lace, silk and tulle were used to form the silhouettes.

The ethereal splendour of the gowns was undoubtedly breathtaking. Ricardo Tisci has excelled himself throughout his five-year career at Givenchy and this collection begs the question… what next? The label is being driven in a very interesting direction, and, my oh my, it is a pleasure to watch. 

CTR AW10: Christian Dior

If, for Spring, John Galliano took equestrianism and the world of horse-riding as his inspiration, this time around his clear influence was flowers- their colour, their shape and their texture. For his Fall collection, Galliano led Christian Dior down a more spontaneous route compared with previous seasons, with a mixture of colour hues and silhouettes lending vitality and effervescence. The whole thing was presented beneath an abundant backdrop of gigantic flowers and luscious green leaves, giving the affair an immediate overtone of tropical fecundity.

Feathered, coiffed, pleated or ruffled- whatever you fancy, Galliano’s got it covered. The show began with a shaggy purple coat, collected at the waist by a twig-like belt, and progressed with a showing of taffeta, layered skirts and hand-painted floral designs. Immediately, some pieces stuck out from the rest- in the first instance, a hugely striking blue jacket with a low, gathered and scooped hem and, secondly, a fifties-style light-blue dress with a floral bodice and puffy organza. In the same respect, a white silk draped dress was transformed by dark, deep blue ink spilling out from its centre and the Stephen Jones designed headgear was impeccable.

However, a completely fabulous ballgown with layers of pale yellow organza sitting below a coat of silk painted in a tantalising tulip design, topped off with an indulgent upper of black silk and black organza completely stole the show. A parade of other ballgowns fixated the crowd, with bright, tulle-y organza being the order of the day.

Galliano captivated his audience with beautiful designs that were daring, extravagant and confident- the perfect cocktail of haute couture. The front-row was as useful a measure of his talent as anything: Anna Wintour and Grace Coddington, both of American Vogue, and Carine Roitfeld of Vogue Paris, sitting beside Patrick Demarchelier, were spotted gracing the most central seats at the Musée Rodin. Once again, a completely enchanting collection from Christian Dior.

RST 2011: Alexander McQueen

Sarah Burton has immediately proved her worth at Alexander McQueen, where the designer took over as Creative Director following Lee McQueen’s tragic death in February of this year. Her dedication to McQueen was evident from the hard work she and her design team put in to completing the designer’s Fall 2010 collection in time for Paris Fashion Week earlier this year. Later, her drive became even more apparent in the presentation of the label’s menswear Spring 2011 collection, which was an immaculate and restrained exploration of tailoring and texture.

For Resort 2011, Burton produced a clean, elegant collection which took off from Fall ‘10 sensibly, with black-and-gold brocade and black lace on nude fabric being an effective and light way of carrying through the oriental influence of Fall. Overall, the clothes were practical and wearable, but they still exuded the usual glamour and chic of Alexander McQueen.

The suits were fantastic- whether they were high-necked, double-breasted and power-shoulder’d or sleeveless and soft-collared, they brought the collection an accessibility that allowed the label’s more conservative audience a pleasant and flattering alternative to the somewhat more outlandish creations, which included a dreamy playsuit made entirely of lace and nude chiffon and a wonderful kimono-sleeved dress. 

There was an air of minimalism to some of the designs- high-waisted, panelled trousers and a number of dresses were cut in an almost futuristic fashion, efficient and edgy in their proportions and dramatic and striking in their appeal. Gold embellishments gave an almost gladiatorial effect to some of the clothes, whilst blood-red ball gowns emphasised the collection’s undoubted post-au courant. 

Yes, progression was key in the first women’s collection that was completely under the creative direction of Sarah Burton. The move was, thankfully, seamless, but, if we are to take anything from Resort 2011, it is clear that Alexander McQueen will, as a label, become the best of both worlds- we can still expect the showmanship and creativity of the eponymous genius, whilst we are to herald in the age of a more pragmatic chic. All in all, this is very exciting for everyone.  

Wear Now, SS10: Varsity

As much as I abhor the very idea of physical activity (I wrote a one-thousand word email this week to my school, complaining about the PE department… don’t ask), the uniforms that the sporty-types are wearing are actually bang-on trend this season, with a refined athleticism coming through in a number of the international collections. Although these creations are the very opposite of their gym bag-ish, sweat-covered high-school origins, their roots in the sportif come through in a mixture of relaxed and restrained lines and the typically athletic colour palette.

Alexander Wang, RTW SS10

At Wang, the socks were pulled high and the sweater hems stretched low. It would be wrong for me to compare the slouchy, soft leather shoulders shown in the picture to military epaulettes, but that would probably be an accurate mirror of my thoughts on sport. However, if you’re a cleaner, more minimal kind of girl, then some of the basics at Maison Martin Margiela rose particularly well to the occassion, with paper used alongside grey jersey to create a kind of trashy, lithe-y agility. 

Lacoste, RTW SS10

Lacoste is always good for a laugh, with the Bloody Mary-drinking tennis set humoured by the traditional $200 polos, whilst their somewhat languorous cable-knit sweaters gave the brand its preppy zest. For a more European style, hit up Hermés- for his last collection with the brand, Jean-Paul Gaultier produced tennis-tasia in an almost Paris-meets-Ivy League move. A more glamorous take on the ball-and-rackets theme could be found at Isaac Mizrahi, where striped polos were paired with sequins and sex appeal.

Hermés, RTW SS10

So, however you respond to the sportwear trend- whether it’s dashing to Net-a-Porter or stealing your boyfriend’s baseball jacket- the winning combination seems to be sportif, confidence and a smile that screams joie de vivre. Sport is competitive, so be quick to act and embrace this genuinely forgiving trend!

Thanks for reading JAC//STYLE!

Thank you so much for following me, you lot! You have no idea how much it means to me. Some of you will read me whenever I pop up on my dash, others will just glare at the length of posts and perhaps you will just unfollow me after reading this! But, whatever… thank you so much if you do read what I post, it does mean a lot. So, if you don’t know me, I’m James! 

You can read about me, if you want, here. Alternatively, why don’t you check out my website? Below are a few main sections of my blog, but there are others things that I talk about along the way, and I’ve left out large sections of my early posts, mainly Pre-Fall 2010 and Spring/Summer 2010 Ready-to-Wear, because my writing wasn’t really developed then and I wasn’t serious about blogging- I’ve left them on, so search if you want. But yeah, take a look:

• Haute Couture SS10
• Haute Couture AW10
• Ready-to-Wear AW10
• Resort 2011
• Pre-Fall 2010
• Menswear AW10

• Trends from RTW AW10
• Wear Now guides from SS10

• Style Icons
• Personal Stuff (welcomes, thank you’s, etc)
• Quotes

Thank you! I hope you enjoy JAC//STYLE and manage to get something from it! Once again, thank you so much for reading and thanks even more if you’re following me! It means a lot, so thank you!