RST 2011: Alexander McQueen
Sarah Burton has immediately proved her worth at Alexander McQueen, where the designer took over as Creative Director following Lee McQueen’s tragic death in February of this year. Her dedication to McQueen was evident from the hard work she and her design team put in to completing the designer’s Fall 2010 collection in time for Paris Fashion Week earlier this year. Later, her drive became even more apparent in the presentation of the label’s menswear Spring 2011 collection, which was an immaculate and restrained exploration of tailoring and texture.
For Resort 2011, Burton produced a clean, elegant collection which took off from Fall ‘10 sensibly, with black-and-gold brocade and black lace on nude fabric being an effective and light way of carrying through the oriental influence of Fall. Overall, the clothes were practical and wearable, but they still exuded the usual glamour and chic of Alexander McQueen.
The suits were fantastic- whether they were high-necked, double-breasted and power-shoulder’d or sleeveless and soft-collared, they brought the collection an accessibility that allowed the label’s more conservative audience a pleasant and flattering alternative to the somewhat more outlandish creations, which included a dreamy playsuit made entirely of lace and nude chiffon and a wonderful kimono-sleeved dress.
There was an air of minimalism to some of the designs- high-waisted, panelled trousers and a number of dresses were cut in an almost futuristic fashion, efficient and edgy in their proportions and dramatic and striking in their appeal. Gold embellishments gave an almost gladiatorial effect to some of the clothes, whilst blood-red ball gowns emphasised the collection’s undoubted post-au courant.
Yes, progression was key in the first women’s collection that was completely under the creative direction of Sarah Burton. The move was, thankfully, seamless, but, if we are to take anything from Resort 2011, it is clear that Alexander McQueen will, as a label, become the best of both worlds- we can still expect the showmanship and creativity of the eponymous genius, whilst we are to herald in the age of a more pragmatic chic. All in all, this is very exciting for everyone.
