CTR AW10: Christian Dior
If, for Spring, John Galliano took equestrianism and the world of horse-riding as his inspiration, this time around his clear influence was flowers- their colour, their shape and their texture. For his Fall collection, Galliano led Christian Dior down a more spontaneous route compared with previous seasons, with a mixture of colour hues and silhouettes lending vitality and effervescence. The whole thing was presented beneath an abundant backdrop of gigantic flowers and luscious green leaves, giving the affair an immediate overtone of tropical fecundity.
Feathered, coiffed, pleated or ruffled- whatever you fancy, Galliano’s got it covered. The show began with a shaggy purple coat, collected at the waist by a twig-like belt, and progressed with a showing of taffeta, layered skirts and hand-painted floral designs. Immediately, some pieces stuck out from the rest- in the first instance, a hugely striking blue jacket with a low, gathered and scooped hem and, secondly, a fifties-style light-blue dress with a floral bodice and puffy organza. In the same respect, a white silk draped dress was transformed by dark, deep blue ink spilling out from its centre and the Stephen Jones designed headgear was impeccable.
However, a completely fabulous ballgown with layers of pale yellow organza sitting below a coat of silk painted in a tantalising tulip design, topped off with an indulgent upper of black silk and black organza completely stole the show. A parade of other ballgowns fixated the crowd, with bright, tulle-y organza being the order of the day.
Galliano captivated his audience with beautiful designs that were daring, extravagant and confident- the perfect cocktail of haute couture. The front-row was as useful a measure of his talent as anything: Anna Wintour and Grace Coddington, both of American Vogue, and Carine Roitfeld of Vogue Paris, sitting beside Patrick Demarchelier, were spotted gracing the most central seats at the Musée Rodin. Once again, a completely enchanting collection from Christian Dior.
