CTR AW10: Chanel
One of the things I look forward to every single fashion week in Paris is the Chanel show, but Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear was a huge disappointment for me. The show was, in my opinion, horrible and the designs were nigh-on tacky. Now comes retribution, in the form of Fall 2010 Couture. The first time I glanced at the collection I was disenchanted, but, on second look, there are some exceptional pieces and Karl Lagerfeld has continued to exhibit his extraordinary talent.
Ever the showman, Lagerfeld presented the collection under a gargantuan gold lion, in allusion to Coco Chanel’s zodiac sign, Leo. Outsized overcoats, in cavernous shades of brown, red and blue- the blue being lined in dark-red fur- were the first stand-out items, the second of which was the almost deconstructive take on the Chanel suit. At first look, it appeared that the characteristic suit had been manipulated by Lagerfeld to generate an almost Kawakubo-esque result, but in reality, all that had happened was that the jackets were cropped to just below the bust and the hemlines dropped several feet to mid-calf. Simple, but clever.
Next came jackets that fell to just above the knee, with half-length, slightly puffed sleeves. They were elegant and the tweeds and trimming were synonymous with the Chanel label. Two-piece suits- dresses with matching cropped jackets- followed, and were amongst the strongest of the looks. A jaunt to North Africa pursued, with shimmering beaded embellishments piping tight dresses, which gave them an extravagant, luxurious look.
Although the rest of the collection was largely unexciting, passing in a whirlwind of floral print, Athenian draping and rich silks, it came alive once again when lace was thrown into the mix. The delicate fabric was, as with many of the Fall Ready-to-Wear collections, given a grungier, more indolent aesthetic, painting a more rock-‘n’-roll picture than seasons past. Towards the end of the collection, the dresses became dreamier and more romantic, with pale, floaty sheer and flower detailing, whilst metallic threads gave some of the dresses a retro feel.
As with every Chanel collection, there were hits and there were misses. However, after the let-down of Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear, this more than makes up for it and I, for one, have had my faith restored in both Lagerfeld and the Chanel brand. My breath is baited for October and Spring 2011, so we can only wait and see!
