JAC//STYLE

CTR AW10: Givenchy

Last season, Ricardo Tisci fed the hype surrounding Givenchy by creating the label’s best haute couture collection in seasons. The prints of his Spring Ready-to-Wear collection have become instantly recognisable, as has his impeccable talent at crafting some of fashion’s best garments in recent years. His residence at Givenchy has been cemented by this faultless couture collection, featuring conscientious embroidery, glittering embellishments and a satisfyingly creative use of texture.

The collection was formed entirely of gowns, inspired by life, death and the human body. The optimism of Tisci’s structures was such that the dusty dresses were haunting, evocative and clinging in both their proportions and styles. This poignant nature carried through the collection, with a circumspective palette of white, black and gold showing Givenchy’s continual restraint, but with a clear, tender reminder of the lavishness of couture. The gowns were beaded with jewels, with one gown reportedly taking over 1,600 hours to hand-embellish in the Givenchy atelier, whilst lace, silk and tulle were used to form the silhouettes.

The ethereal splendour of the gowns was undoubtedly breathtaking. Ricardo Tisci has excelled himself throughout his five-year career at Givenchy and this collection begs the question… what next? The label is being driven in a very interesting direction, and, my oh my, it is a pleasure to watch. 

CTR AW10: Christian Dior

If, for Spring, John Galliano took equestrianism and the world of horse-riding as his inspiration, this time around his clear influence was flowers- their colour, their shape and their texture. For his Fall collection, Galliano led Christian Dior down a more spontaneous route compared with previous seasons, with a mixture of colour hues and silhouettes lending vitality and effervescence. The whole thing was presented beneath an abundant backdrop of gigantic flowers and luscious green leaves, giving the affair an immediate overtone of tropical fecundity.

Feathered, coiffed, pleated or ruffled- whatever you fancy, Galliano’s got it covered. The show began with a shaggy purple coat, collected at the waist by a twig-like belt, and progressed with a showing of taffeta, layered skirts and hand-painted floral designs. Immediately, some pieces stuck out from the rest- in the first instance, a hugely striking blue jacket with a low, gathered and scooped hem and, secondly, a fifties-style light-blue dress with a floral bodice and puffy organza. In the same respect, a white silk draped dress was transformed by dark, deep blue ink spilling out from its centre and the Stephen Jones designed headgear was impeccable.

However, a completely fabulous ballgown with layers of pale yellow organza sitting below a coat of silk painted in a tantalising tulip design, topped off with an indulgent upper of black silk and black organza completely stole the show. A parade of other ballgowns fixated the crowd, with bright, tulle-y organza being the order of the day.

Galliano captivated his audience with beautiful designs that were daring, extravagant and confident- the perfect cocktail of haute couture. The front-row was as useful a measure of his talent as anything: Anna Wintour and Grace Coddington, both of American Vogue, and Carine Roitfeld of Vogue Paris, sitting beside Patrick Demarchelier, were spotted gracing the most central seats at the Musée Rodin. Once again, a completely enchanting collection from Christian Dior.

Haute Couture AW10: Thimister

Wow. This really is his grand re-entrance to the Couture circle- instead of showing Spring/Summer, Josephus Thimister showed his Autumn/Winter collection this week. Notably, the collection contained men, too- an odd move to show Menswear as Couture, but it was certainly exciting.

The message in this collection? If you’re imperial and can be blood-soaked in a pair of Hunter wellies, pull off military jackets lined with dyed red fur and go around town in military-utility, you’ll fit right in.

Stunning.