JAC//STYLE

RST 2011: Alexander McQueen

Sarah Burton has immediately proved her worth at Alexander McQueen, where the designer took over as Creative Director following Lee McQueen’s tragic death in February of this year. Her dedication to McQueen was evident from the hard work she and her design team put in to completing the designer’s Fall 2010 collection in time for Paris Fashion Week earlier this year. Later, her drive became even more apparent in the presentation of the label’s menswear Spring 2011 collection, which was an immaculate and restrained exploration of tailoring and texture.

For Resort 2011, Burton produced a clean, elegant collection which took off from Fall ‘10 sensibly, with black-and-gold brocade and black lace on nude fabric being an effective and light way of carrying through the oriental influence of Fall. Overall, the clothes were practical and wearable, but they still exuded the usual glamour and chic of Alexander McQueen.

The suits were fantastic- whether they were high-necked, double-breasted and power-shoulder’d or sleeveless and soft-collared, they brought the collection an accessibility that allowed the label’s more conservative audience a pleasant and flattering alternative to the somewhat more outlandish creations, which included a dreamy playsuit made entirely of lace and nude chiffon and a wonderful kimono-sleeved dress. 

There was an air of minimalism to some of the designs- high-waisted, panelled trousers and a number of dresses were cut in an almost futuristic fashion, efficient and edgy in their proportions and dramatic and striking in their appeal. Gold embellishments gave an almost gladiatorial effect to some of the clothes, whilst blood-red ball gowns emphasised the collection’s undoubted post-au courant. 

Yes, progression was key in the first women’s collection that was completely under the creative direction of Sarah Burton. The move was, thankfully, seamless, but, if we are to take anything from Resort 2011, it is clear that Alexander McQueen will, as a label, become the best of both worlds- we can still expect the showmanship and creativity of the eponymous genius, whilst we are to herald in the age of a more pragmatic chic. All in all, this is very exciting for everyone.  

RST 2011: Proenza Schouler

The first time I caught a glance at Proenza Schouler’s latest Resort collection on Vogue.com, I was disappointed. Feeling slightly sad and my love for McCullough and Hernandez tarnishing by the second, I thought I better wait until I was able to Style.com-it. And, boy, I’m glad I waited! Rejoice!

The boys at Proenza Schouler have, once again, created a print-perfect collection that would look great in a Hispanic suburb of Arizona, a restaurant in NYC or outside a show in Paris. All in all, the boys worked together to form a practical assembly of clothes that were stylish, punctual in their softness and that landed just on the right sight of punishing (flat sandals, anyone?)

As with previous collections, sweaters and cardigans made the work youthful and accessible, whilst metallics afforded a quality that was both past and present- the concept of a glamour that was timeless. A tribal atmosphere was established through abundant Mexico-meets-Africa prints and ethnic accessories- the necklaces totemic, the bracelets beady and the bags vibrant.

In general, this is an example of what the boys do best. High-waisted shorts, preppy bouclé jackets and a creative use of sheer gave the collection its ignorant American cheek and its somewhat restrained European elegance. Altogether everything just worked- this was the perfect, glamorous edge that has become synonymous with the Proenza brand. 

McCullough and Hernandez are exceptionally talented at what they do, with Resort 2011 being no exception. The boys demonstrated their abilities through  their crowd-pleasing design skills and knack for mixing prints, telling the fashion world that, whatever happens, they’re here to stay….  

RST 2011: Burberry Prorsum

Soz that I’ve not been posting a lot recently…. but anyway! Christopher Bailey- or, as I, thanks to Henry Holland, like to think of him, ‘do me daily, Christopher Bailey’- has championed once again for Burberry Prorsum. His latest Cruise collection comprised the traditional, militaristic staples of the historic brand, whilst still pushing forward a certain bounce and edge. Such an idea is the very definition of Burberry, with Resort 2011 seeing the timeless trench being expertly re-hashed yet again by fierce fastenings in the form of perforated leather buckles. 

However, things took a more romantic turn overall, with lace (and an amazing lace-trimmed trench) and delicate, dusty ruffles creating a more pretty picture than seasons past. Safari? Sure! Tribal influences came in the form of snakeskin and animal print, whilst leather gave combat greens a refreshing and deep, forest-like abundance. More conservative clients found calm in a light, two-toned trench, a dark blue trouser suit and high-waisted skirts, showing that Bailey really can cater for everyone. 

Generally, the collection was very strong, with the heritage of the house being honoured with great respect and detail with Bailey, who has steered the label to the forefront of elegance and refinement once more.

RST 2011: Bottega Veneta

For this surprisingly well executed Resort collection, Tomas Maier moved deeper into minimalism, in a way which was cautious yet infinitely fulfilling. The designs were for the powerful gal on her vacation- the clothes were a kind and forgiving manifestation of cleanliness and productivity, perhaps the ideal for the modern, hard-working woman. Does that sound too complicated?

Blacks and whites follow the monochromatic trend we’ve seen so far in the Cruise collections, as did panelled, bi-coloured knits that (I’ll forgive them, don’t worry) were retro in their colours and structure. Buckles, efficient leathers and sportif designs created a somewhat active idea, whilst a grown-up version of Proenza Schouler tie-dye was created by a wonderful silk high-neck, mid-thigh drapey dress. 

Overall, the suggestion that Maier has created something that every Resort collection should aspire to be wouldn’t be straying too far from the truth. The overall selection of sophisticated designs that were still breezy, cool and young enough to be worn in a warmer climate proved to be both pleasing and promising.

RST 2011: Christian Dior

Oh my, Galliano. What a shamers-sesh. The high of Spring 2010 Couture and, to some extent, Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear, was crushed in a vintage crack of your masterful whip.

The retro trend is depressive and just a little bit oppressive. I find it altogether a bit dull, and, unfortunately, Galliano played upon it, developing a collection that was, for all intents and purposes, well-crafted and expertly designed. Something just wasn’t right, though. Tailoring was given a softer, more relaxed feel in this Cruise collection, which, give the creative director his due, worked well.

The accessories were actually of note- I often think the bags and jewellery in a show are surplus to requirements- with some tribal-inspired ideas making for a nice transition from Spring 2010 and Resort 2010. That’s not the point though, is it?

Big, showy dresses for the red-carpet made something of statement, though, ensuring that the lady frequenters of Cannes will be well kitted-out. Some of the designs had quite a distinct feel of luxury and the colour reinforced a cheerier, more upbeat mood at the house, which is something it has been lacking in. (PS Check out the Princess Jasmine look-a-like in the final picture!)

Altogether though, this offering was, regrettably, sub-par. I sound so hater-ish, and I really don’t like it, and it’s probably the lateness of the hour that’s clouding my judgement, but- in this somewhat sarcastic, ironic and trashy post- I’m really not impressed. Sure, the ruffles were cutesy, especially in their juicy-as-lip-gloss pinks, and the sheer was structured but dreamy enough to have a fairytale element, but- really?

Oh, Galliano, you’re capable of so, so much more.