I’m not exactly astonished that Yves Saint Laurent’s latest collection has proved to be everything I expected- Stefano Pilati has, once again, created a stimulating stash of designs for the iconic label. Altogether, it reminds me of a scent I might expect strong, influential businesswomen to wear, sending out a message that the wearer may be feminine but, take a wrong step, and you’ll know all about it. The Yves Saint Laurent lady is striking, ruthless and knows exactly what she wants.
Floppy hats, gold chains, furs, oh my. Sheer, silk and leather were there, too. Quite a mix of textures and shapes, but- of course- it worked. Pilati has brushed his personal touch on Yves Saint Laurent, but has relished the responsibility of upholding the traditions and heritage of such a celebrated, historic house. Best? A dark skirt-suit with puffed shoulders and a belted fastening. Love.
Great stuff!
I like Loewe and have been looking forward to seeing what the Spanish brand would interpret for Autumn/Winter, and I’ve not been dissapointed. For their Fall collection, Loewe brought together greys and blacks in a manner that was elegant and sensible: a more organised approach than their Spring collection, whilst still retaining visual interest and managing to hype up the luxury side of the company.
Silks and cottons were placed alongside velvet and sheer to form a powerful yet feminine collection that remarked upon trends and was pleasing in nearly every respect. The traditional leathers were also a focus, with the continued use of classic designs and materials ensuring Loewe will have a strong, dedicated fan-base for years to come.
I really like it!
The greens at Junya Watanabe were very ‘battle’- a feeling that was carried throughout the entire collection. The varying structures, interesting forms and flattering drapery set the theme off- camouflage prints, sturdy boots and military coats secured the combat tone, whilst capes paired with zips, buttons and buckles to give the whole thing an edge of diversion and, really, that’s what its all about. Good stuff!
I really quite like it.
‘Wow’ always manages to sum up a Viktor & Rolf show, and this time was no exception. The audience watched as Horsting and Snoeren dressed their models, a slight distraction from the outlandish ensembles- but this was a show, remember. Wonderfully striking looks that were still practical: an appreciated move from last season’s extreme, unrealistic (master)pieces.
A lot of fur, a lot of print and a whole lot of embellishments. I wouldn’t even know how to describe half of this stuff, but it really is innovative and the designers have managed, once again, to harness their innovative craft.
As I’ve said- wow!
The general consensus in fashion was that Maison Martin Margiela’s Spring 2010 collection was a disaster: an unappreciatively distorted perception of Margiela’s designs received and reviewed badly. However, their Fall collection tells a far different story- this time around, you’ll surely be able to forgive them. They’ve righted their wrongs by producing clothes that were refreshing, elegant and mature, and that were sophisticated enough to be worn from the day into the evening.
The collection was a trend dream- they were all here: leather, sheer, fur, zips, buttons, metallics and a turtleneck or two. Best? The simplistic overtones of greys, whites and blacks, personified in a pant-top combination of high-waisted trousers and a slash neck.
Margiela is back on form!
